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300 grams of … Butter!


I absolutely adore palmiers, and they make pretty little hearts!

This little weakling has been suffering random muscle pains from whipping cream and rolling out puff pastry. Go ahead, call me a wimp, I totally will admit to it.

The latest creation to come home with me was a small batch of 4 apple turnovers and about a dozen palmiers. For two days in a row, I had 8:30AM classes to observe how to make puff pastry, and then attempt it myself.

Unfortunately, for the demonstration, we had the chef who manages to make things feel a little more hectic than they actually are, so my notes were again a bit of a puzzle to decipher. I was getting quite frustrated as I wrote out the recipe later that night. Usually in demonstrations, chefs make double, or triple the recipe in order to show us everything, and to make enough samples for everyone at the end of class. During a demonstration we might see three to five different desserts made in front of us, most likely because they vary slightly from the same “base” recipe like puff pastry or tart crust. Then in practical classes we attempt a maximum of two. Anyway, this chef was working on six different pieces of puff pastry by the end, and I quickly lost track of which one was the “original” – i.e. the one that we would be working with. He was pulling out puff pastry that he had prepared before class, and it got really confusing as he was chilling some in the freezer (to speed process along) and some in the fridge. I wanted to throw my pen down and close my eyes. Please also keep in mind this was very early in the morning, after I had gotten up at 6AM to get ready.

The next morning, I was excited to make my puff pastry, but quite unsure of the exact steps as I walked into the kitchen. I was hoping for the young chef who may have yelled at me, but at least would also clarify a lot of my questions. Of course, we had the older chef that morning, whom I had never worked with, and have since decided I don’t quite like. He doesn’t say much during class, and just observes unless you ask him questions. He may give instructions once in a while, but they’re more or less about cleaning up your space or getting a move on, than actual instructive feedback. It’s nice that he’s not breathing down your neck and you can work without feeling like you’re being scrutinized, but liberty was the last thing I needed for puff pastry, something so new to me. For some people’s final products that didn’t quite turn out, he didn’t offer explanations on what may have gone wrong, either. I can’t say that I’m impressed, because I paid good money to be here to learn!!

  
Blurry photo of the morning light from our apartment window – yawn! Oh look, pretty palmier!

In practical class, I’m starting to get a little bothered by the lack of camaraderie between the 11 students in my group. Sometimes it feels like every class is a “every man for himself, do-or-die” situation. There are a few of us who will help each other out by grabbing an extra rack, cake board, etc., but not everyone is like that. To me, being helpful like passing along the vanilla or offering your leftover baking powder is just normal and…I don’t know – having good manners? Yet I don’t think everyone in the class feels the same way. It stresses me out a bit in the classroom when I feel like some of my classmates are not exactly helpful or supportive, but I’ve found the silver lining in the cloud…

See, I speak all the languages used in our kitchen (English, un petit peu de français, and Mandarin), and I’ve found a group that is much more relaxed and friendly -the “Chinese contingent”. I’ve had to translate for the Chinese contingent a few times now, because they don’t really speak English and their cram-school French fails them sometimes, but I don’t mind that much because at least they’re nice and friendly people. We had to cook the apples for the apple turnovers, and I shared a stove range with two Taiwanese students and a girl from the UK/India. One of the Taiwanese dudes turned off my stove by accident when his apples finished cooking, so when I stopped by to check and stir my apples, I was dismayed to find that they weren’t doing much…while the element beside my pot was super hot. I snapped at the guy out of frustration, but then I guess he felt really bad because the next thing I knew, I had overcooked my apples, but he had taken them off the element and stirred a bit for me. I ended up with slightly caramelised apples – a blessing, really, because it made the apple turnovers much tastier – but I was also glad that kindness still existed in this world of patisserie.


My apple turnovers…you can barely see the leaf design on them, but they made me happy :)

In total, I used 375 grams of butter to make 4 apple turnovers, about a dozen palmiers, and a tomato tart for dinner with the leftover dough. Aside from one apple turnover that we gave to our gardienne, we’ve eaten everything else. I feel slightly sick when I think about how much butter we have eaten (dry butter, too!)…looks like it’s going to be plain oatmeal and fruit/veg here for a few days before I bring home éclairs and chouquettes!


One last photo, I promise. I just love ’em. Aren’t they so pretty?

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All That Whipping Cream


My St-Honoré

If you like whipped cream, then the very French dessert St-Honoré is totally for you. It is a crumbly cookie crust, with unfilled cream puffs dipped in caramelized sugar lining the edges, and then the rest of the gateau is just filled with sweetened whipped cream (crème Chantilly). Doesn’t sound too complex in terms of flavours, but it is to die for once you take a bite.

We had a demonstration featuring St-Honoré and the Paris Brest, which is another cream-puff-like pastry (choux pastry) dessert, but it is normally filled with the very rich pastry cream (avert your eyes at the ingredients) instead of whipping cream. For the demo, the chef made a praline mousseline cream out of the pastry cream, which involved beating in even more butter, and filled his Paris Brest with that. I cannot use words to describe the sinfulness of the small tasting I got at the end of the demo.

  
St-Honoré on the left, Paris Brest on the right, from demo, taken on my iPhone.

The components making up the St-Honoré were not extremely complex to make, but it was the first time we had so many moving parts in a practical. Of course, the final assembly was a crucial element, because if anything, this is one dessert that is a major feast for the eyes. I walked into the practical feeling anxious, since I had no idea how long everything could take. On the way in, a friend from a previous class warned us that the chef announced everything must be in the oven within the hour, which doesn’t sound like a lot of time, but should be enough. One hour for a rolled out cookie dough plus cream puffs? Ack!

We had the same chef as the one who did the demonstration for us, and it was the first time he supervised one of my practicals. He is a jolly man who is stern when he needs to be, but moves quickly past issues and becomes his happy self again. He’s really good at isolating problems and getting angry, but most of the time he was energetic and joking around with us. As he rolled out our dough for some of us, he was singing “I like to move it move it” to remind us to keep moving the dough. Seriously, this was a fun practical. Like a classmate said, it was motivating to be in the kitchen with this chef. I got yelled at when he told me to do something, and I responded with OK (because it’s habit!), he shouted very seriously to me, “C’est ‘Oui Chef’, pas ‘Okay’. Je ne suis pas Américain!”

The class was hard, because the choux pastry needs to be overworked to develop gluten, and that was a lot of beating by hand. Then the whipping cream needed to be whipped, by hand, into whipped cream. Everyone was sweating profusely and looking up once in a while at each other in exasperation as the whipping took place. The countertop was also a bit high for most of us girls, and that made it even harder to whip. My cream started to thicken and was probably at a soft peak stage when I looked pleadingly at the chef as he strolled past me. He picked it up, started whipping slowly, and picked up speed just like a machine. Within 30 seconds I had a bowl full of whipped cream. It was not fair. I’m now going to stress about getting this dessert as part of my final exam.

The best thing is, I don’t know what I did, but this chef really liked me. I was pleasantly surprised when he came by, helped me roll out my dough (which convinced me he was going to give me a zero for the day), and then gave me a squeeze and a high-five before he left. Um, what happened? He took time to get to know me too, (all en Français, which was kinda difficult), and we even got to talking about where I lived, how long it took to get to class, how he walks to school everyday, and how it’s good that I walk sometimes too, blah blah blah. I’m not sure if this was normal, or perhaps he’s just friendly to a couple of people at a time in different classes to make sure he gets to know everyone, or what…but it was really nice to have a super friendly chef who stopped by to pay compliments and to help out whenever I needed. It took the edge off of the millions of steps we had to go through yesterday (my recipe/notes were three pages long)! In total, I received two high-fives. Unheard of in the other serious chefs’ presence.


Piping on the topping gave most people anxiety yesterday, but that’s what makes a St-Honoré

I brought my camera to class because I was sure the whipped cream would get crushed or even start melting on my commute home, and the chef playfully picked it up and started snapping photos after he sent me to clean up my stove top. Then he scrolled through the photos, a little too far, and saw a picture of my otter on the camera. He was delighted and beckoned me over to ask me what that was. Oh, dear…


Photo taken by the chef – now you can see my nerdy self at work in my LCB outfit!

I took the dessert home on the stifling hot Métro, and the cream was starting to go by the time I got home. We cut two generous pieces, took off the cream on top, and threw out the rest. Since I don’t like just whipped cream, I melted some chocolate and drizzled it on top before serving, and it was decadent and absolutely a dream to eat. It’s not something to be consumed everyday, but I’ll definitely remember this one for the special occasions!


Drizzled with melted dark chocolate and consumed within seconds.

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Guest Chefs and Theory Classes

  
Cod & Squab sampler dishes from the guest chef

This past week we had the first guest chef event of the school year, and our first “theory class”. Let me just say, I love theory classes. We spent two hours this time talking about butter and sugar. TWO HOURS! BUTTER! SUGAR! I was in heaven. Even more luckily, we had the young chef who’s definitely cut out for this type of thing, and I had just a great time learning about fat content in butter, sugar processing methods, etc. Sacrilegious discovery: molasses is not used in baking or cooking here (I knew that), but rather, is fed to cows as an unwanted by-product in sugar processing. What?! I think the chef could see my face looking slightly crushed upon hearing this, and I swear he almost smirked.

The guest chef event was also really neat. The chef was from a Michelin-starred restaurant in Avignon, who also happens to be a good friend of a cuisine chef here at the school. His specialty is truffles and tomatoes, and he showed us many different types of tomatoes. Apparently at the tomato board of the EU (or something to that effect) where he is a prominent member, there are over 2,500 types of seeds available for tomatoes. Crazy! He handed out his recipes and set to work with his pastry chef at the same time, plus lots of help from kitchen assistants and chefs at the school. It was chaotic up front at the kitchen, with lots of action in all directions and the translator rattling off to stay with the two chefs. My friend and I attended, but decided not to take notes, which was a really good idea. There was no way I could’ve captured everything and enjoyed the session at the same time.

At the end, just when it looks like the chef has only cooked enough for 4 people, the assistants brought out pre-made portions enough for the whole demonstration room! So we all got little samplers of the three dishes. This experience immediately moved future guest chef events up to “must-attend” events on my list. Free samples of different dishes from Michelin-starred restaurants? Sign me up, every time!


Dessert: shortbread biscuit topped with tomato sorbet, lemon-basil cream, mustard syrup, and a tomato meringue. Doesn’t sound too dessert-like, but it was perfectly light, sweet, and delicious. I wanted all of the leftover sorbet. And maybe the meringue too.

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