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Scammed!

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The thing about backpacking in Asia that irks me the most has been the dishonesty we come across in our daily traveling life. In India it was bad in the sense that we knew the first price people quoted us were typically too high, and had room for bargaining. So we went with that and just got used to the routine of shamelessly haggling over a few rupees.

In Southeast Asia, it has been a completely different ball game. First of all, these nations don’t have a history with England, so everyone’s English is so-so at best, or they’re just really good at faking poor English.

Second of all, this is an area where tours are much more commonplace for day trips or overnight trips, and the booking agencies can be really dishonest. Namely, the one we gave our visas to. It turns out that we paid double the price for our Vietnam visas to be processed by them (as opposed to walking into the Embassy ourselves).

The worst example so far was the bus trip we booked with the same agency to cross into Cambodia. It turned into a bit of a drama…

Before leaving, I asked and “confirmed” many times with the travel agent that it is the same bus that goes all the way to Siem Reap, and that we stop at the border and walk across. No extra fees.

Not so much. After a few hours on the road, the minibus pulled into a random shack of a building on the side of the road and all of a sudden a few men appeared and started handing out customs forms and visa application forms to us. Seemingly innocent enough, we began filling out these forms. Oh, wait, the guys informed us, they were going to get us to fill out the forms, and then take them into the office for the visas, and that’ll be 1,200 Thai bahts ($40) each, thanks.

Knowing that’s so not what was supposed to happen, Alex and I piped up and asked about walking across ourselves and getting our own visas. The guys said that was impossible, and to get our own visas was going to take a detour out of the way, very far from where we were. Not knowing how far we were from the border or even if we were near the border, Alex took a peek at the road but couldn’t make out anything in the distance. Reluctantly we filled out our forms and forked over the cash, all the while telling the guy that it’s not right, we should be able to get our own visas.

The audacity of these guys was unbelievable. One guy started giving us instructions as we got back into the minibus, and then accused us of being “unfriendly Canadians” for not nodding along with the fake instructions he was giving out. (Alex muttered under his breath that we didn’t like cheating Cambodians. I was nervous for my life.) Then we drove for 500m and got off – yes, that was the Thai exit border already!! Alex piped up again, and what do you know, the guys quickly decided to separate me and Alex out from the rest of the group so we couldn’t get the whole group riled up. Sneaky bastards.

Our friends from the same journey, the Americans, later told us that after we left, they also called out these people on their scheme, and these guys threatened to take them to the tourist police!

So we made it across the border, finally, and got ferried into a bus terminal to wait for a large bus to take us into Siem Reap. This was also not the deal – we were supposed to pile back into our minibus and be on our way. At this point, there was an option to take a cab into Siem Reap for $12 per person (again, a hoax because the cabs should’ve been available on the road for much cheaper, but we were holed up in a tourist trap bus station). The guys told us that the large bus into Siem Reap wasn’t going to leave for another 1.5 hours at least, and that they could give us a discount for our taxi ride if we wanted to pay for a taxi. We found the American couple and were ready to get into a discounted cab when we realized that these guys who took us there were already gone – back to Bangkok!! So no discounts, and one more lie to add to their list of lies.

Regardless, at that point, we were just so angry with these scammers that we got into a cab and drove far away from the infuriating scene, arriving at Siem Reap 2.5 hours later – much faster than the bus, and at last leaving the whole incident behind.

Then in Vietnam, we arrived at the ferry terminal to get onto Cat Ba Island, and were told by two separate (but working together) old ladies that the tickets were 200,000VND each. They got mad at us when we questioned them on this price, and then changed their mind and tried to charge us 300,000VND each! At one point when we were still questioning them on why they kept on changing the price, one of the ladies got mad and told us to go away! In the end, because it was super hot and we really wanted to get out of there, we had to pay 200,000VND for our ticket. Once on the ferry, I saw that the rest of the Vietnamese population held tickets for 130,000VND. Effing a-holes.

That concludes my self-righteous moment of ranting. I am fully aware that I probably have a stick up my butt about being honest and responsible and moral – but hey, you’re still reading this, so whatever. I miss Taiwan, where everyone was super friendly, helpful, and honest, including the customs official who stamped me out of the country, joked with me about my Canadian passport, and told me to “come back anytime!”. I miss Canada, where official ticket windows exist where you need them, and tourism offices would be embarrassed to hear of scams like the ones we’ve seen.

It does comfort me that at least in Asia, most people’s religions generally believe in bad karma. So here’s to all the scammers, I hope karma bites you all real bad, real soon.

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Bangkok

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Erawan Waterfalls – 5th Tier

We arrived in Bangkok on Saturday evening, and as was “tradition”, we stayed at a highly recommended little B&B to ease our way into the city. We ventured out to one of the popular night markets, and promptly resolved to come back at the end of our trip to load up on goodies before we return home!

From there, it seems we have been stuck in Bangkok.

We visited the famous Khao San Road on Sunday, and hit up as many food and fruit stalls as possible. Whereas in India we often hesitated at the roadside stands, here they are so abundant that it doesn’t take time at all to familiarize ourselves with all the offerings and jump right in. I think we had pad thai, chicken and beef skewers, chicken liver skewers, mango, papaya, guava, watermelon, green papaya salad, and a banana and nutella roti pancake to finish it all off. I quickly understood the subtle warnings I received prior to leaving for this leg of the trip: it would be incredibly hard to lose weight in Southeast Asia.

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Getting our food made in front of us on Khao San Road

Since we were overly relaxed in Taipei, we had to find a travel agent to get our Vietnam visas. On a whim, Alex suggested that we go on a package tour to Katchanaburi for three days and two nights while the visas were being processed. Without being skeptical at all (Taipei really spoiled us!), we handed over our passports to a random travel agent on Khao San Road.

I won’t bore you with the details of the panic and obsessive googling that ensued.

Thank goodness the next morning, we found the travel agent at work at 7AM to see us off on our tour – so far so good. However, things took a very interesting turn when we checked in to our “floating hotel”. It is literally floating rafts with tin roofs and a semi-outdoor shower/bathroom that drains right into the River Kwai – the toilet drainage courtesy of us pouring buckets of water into the toilet. I will admit that it totally threw me off, especially since it had been a while since we “roughed it” like so.

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The only picture of our hotel that I will share. The rest really isn’t worth writing home about.

Aside from the hotel (and us gleaming hopeful looks into the neighbouring raft hotel, which seemed much more modern and luxurious), the trip was quite awesome. We checked so many experiences of our list that we are a little afraid of visiting the rest of Southeast Asia with a “been there, done that, got the t-shirt” attitude!

The most unusual for me was the elephant bathing. It was a little further down the river from our hostel, and as soon as we arrived, the elephant trainers tried to get me onto the biggest elephant there was. In case you didn’t know before, you know now that I don’t swim, and tend to panic in water. So they convinced me that this elephant was tame, and I got on after watching Alex get on his elephant first, and sure enough, even when the elephant dipped into the water, she didn’t go too far in, and I was able to keep my head above water. So far so good. Then someone arrived with a life jacket for me, and as soon as I had it on properly, the trainers asked me to switch with Alex…and ohhhh boy did they have an evil plan in mind!

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The only picture of me looking calm at the elephant bathing

With the life jacket securely fastened around me, my new elephant went right into the water and threw me to the left. I managed to hold on, but only until she leaned right. Then I lost my grip and fell off temporarily, kicking off the trainer who was riding behind me – oops. This did not deter the trainer from scaring me further. He called out a command….and I was looking at river water all of a sudden. Yep, the elephant fully dipped into the water, me included. I had a nice big gulp of the water from River Kwai (which, as you will remember, may have included my own shower water from that morning, ew!). I kicked up to the top just as the elephant came up, and grabbed on blindly to this now very untrustworthy elephant of mine. I couldn’t even wipe my face just in case she pulled another one on me. After ten seconds, I determined it was safe to let go for a few seconds, and quickly wiped my face to see all the trainers and the next family in line laughing at me. Ugh!

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Alex getting sprayed by his elephant – so fun!

The bathing was short, but really different and nothing like what I could’ve imagined. I am glad I did it, despite the fact that I may still burst into vomit-mode from drinking the river water!

We continued the rest of the tour with a ride on the elephants later that morning, where we fed them with peanuts and bananas at the end, and then spent some time at the Tiger Temple taking the obligatory photos with the tigers. The Tiger Temple was neat for us, though, because we spent a lot of time with the cubs that were not chained, but on leashes with the monks. One baby cub liked me so much that he decided to rest his head and paw on my lap!

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Short elephant trek with Mama Elephant – there’s a baby chained to her!

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Alex playing with the tiger cub at the Tiger Temple

We finished off the tour with a full morning at the Erawan Waterfalls. To be honest, I wasn’t super excited about waterfalls since, again, I don’t swim. The hike along the falls proved me wrong – it was quite a spectacular workout! Erawan Waterfalls consists of 7 smaller falls, or tiers, and we hiked up to the fifth tier. In the pools at each tier, there were lots of fish – big, medium, and tiny little ones. The medium and little ones were the type that would eat the dead skin off your feet, much like the famous “fish spas” in Bangkok that we’ve seen. It freaked the crap out of me, and I could not get used to it no matter how much I tried. Alex got used to it quickly enough, and is currently boasting very soft feet blah blah blah. He had at some points, about 50 fish on his feet, nibbling away!!

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This picture isn’t even the worst of it. Nightmares for me!

We are back in Bangkok now and happy to report that the travel agent we selected, out of sheer luck, was a very trustworthy one who offered a great albeit slightly questionable standards tour, and processed our visas successfully.

Tomorrow first thing in the morning, on to Angkor Wat!

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Nothing like home

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The beach in front of Caesar Park hotel in Kenting

After more than three weeks of mushy curries in India, Taiwan has never felt so agreeable to me.

We spent the first week bumming around, relaxing, and waiting for Alex to get over the flu. Because of the malaria pills, and the re-adjusting from our stomach bugs in India, it took a while for us to dive into the delicious street eats. Meanwhile, I have been picking up wardrobe staples for cheap, and shopping for random goodies here and there (yay, no hardcore bargaining!).

To maintain the weight we’ve lost from all that stomach turmoil, we’ve been biking a lot. Biking in Taiwan has been kind of like the “it” sport of the past few years, and the trails around Taipei are very well developed that they attract lots of families and biking enthusiasts every weekend. To date, I’ve been out on 8 separate trips around Taipei and also in Sun Moon Lake (middle of the island) and Kenting (southern tip), and totalled 172 kilometres on these outings.

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Doing the lightbulb-twist wave in Kenting, in honour of the royal wedding

My favourite part so far has got to be the trip we made down to Kenting. It is the town on the southern most tip of Taiwan, and approximately on the same latitude as Hawaii. When I was younger we used to go with my godparents and godbrothers, so it was nice to revisit the town, stay at the same resort we stayed at 17 years ago, and hang out on the beach to even out the faint farmer tans we acquired in India from dressing conservatively.

Kenting is exactly what I think a beach town should be like. It has fancy resorts (we “splurged” and stayed at Caesar Park), beachfront B&B’s, and everything in between. The water temperature is mild (27 degrees Celsius in the ocean during the day), the waves are gentle – ideal conditions for swimming. Kenting has been developing into more and more of a tourist destination in the past couple of decades, and the main road in town is now dotted with street vendors selling food, beverages, clothing, sunglasses, souvenirs, and other trinkets at night. Alex’s favourite were the games stalls that had everything from darts to BB guns to little paintball guns. Loaded with a bunch of useless prizes at the end of the night, we returned back to the hotel stuffed and happy.

I loved our hotel, Caesar Park, because as soon as we walked in, I felt like I recognized everything from each of the trees in the lush courtyard, to the subtle design in the sand-filled ashtrays in the lobby (the ashtrays are not in use – no smoking indoors anymore). The hotel was renovated a few years ago so everything was new, but still familiar to me and my sister.

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This little birdie looks like he has a moustache

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Biked up from the road below to catch the sunset from the top of the mountain!

We loaded up on mangoes when we were down south too, as the season is only beginning now in Taipei. I can now leave Taiwan happy :)

As much as I feel like I should be posting even more aggressively to share all that there is love about Taipei, I have to admit that we haven’t been taking our camera out with us everywhere we go. It’s been an incredibly relaxing vacation, and we’re now scrambling to get ready for our next lag into South East Asia, beginning on Saturday. Stay tuned!

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